The intricate detailing and complexity of embroidery in this design is a
tribute to the highly skilled craftsmen required to weave shawls like
these. The center of the shawl has a black diamond shaped motif, immediately bordered by white coloured thread. The medley of colours
used to weave this shawl, creates a striking effect. Jacquard-type design, vertically and horizontally symmetrical. Variation of colour on the 2 horizontal halves. Long scroll-like butas. Patterned fringe-tabs.
This shawl has been cut down from a single piece and has a timeless Jamawar design done using the Kani method of embroidery. The design in a Jamawar shawl is completely
woven into the fabric with no visible fringes.
This is a Kani shawl with the border and the pallav appliqued on the woven white fabric. Applique is a technique where the
smaller pieces of fabric are stitched on to the larger one. Pallavs and borders from a single shawl joined with plain white field
and pallav-ends. Pallav has large butas against abstract floral background, with the pallavs and borders having being made
in the Kani technique. The ornamented border that has been stitched on, has paisley or more commonly known ‘Aamli’ pattern all over.
This particular piece was cut down from a single shawl, while the end border had been incorporated from a different shawl. The extension also has considerable seaming. The design technique is Kani embroidery which encompasses predominantly the
surface field. The red pallav added compliments the big butas on floral mosaic background.
This Maharaja Shawl is a Kani weave done in the Jacquard style. It has a black star shaped primary motif which gives the rest of the design some symmetry. The embroidery is done in various hues of pink, brown and black on a deep red ground. Single complete shawl
as originally designed, though probably woven in several pieces joined with invisible seams.
A plain woven Pashmina with stitched border and pallav, cut from one piece.
There is Jali embroidery around the field, with thicker borders on the two ends
of the shawl. This Palledar style shawl with plain field and peripheral abstract
floral design, is simplistic yet elegant.
This Shawl is a Jamawar piece. Such shawls are tediously handwoven and could take several years at a time to finish a single piece, depending on the complexity of the design. This particular pieces has
a complex set of multicoloured paisley motifs, of different sizes, woven on a yellow ground with added plain yellow pallavs.
This maharaja shawl has a black central medallion flanked by elaborate
paisley and buta designs on all sides. Harlequin tailgates are added as
borders in this shawl. It also has a uniform buta motif border on all sides.
This is a unique piece because it stands as a testament to the time in which it was stitched. In the 19th century there was a minor revolution in the traditional weaving of the Kani shawls. Instead of being woven as
one piece, the shawls were woven in long strips and then connected together. This particular piece was woven into two and then connected together. It has prominent red colour paisley motifs in butedar design
throughout the shawl, accompanied by smaller floral motifs, and an additional plain Khudrang pallavs.
This piece displays the beautiful craftsmanship of the Kani weavers. The entire
field is covered with paisley motifs of various size. The paisley pattern is by far
the most popular design used in Kani shawls. This specific shawl is a single cut
shawl as originally designed, though perhaps woven in several pieces joined
with invisible seams. Plain white woven pashmina piece added at end of
pallavs. Deep pallavs, round-the field borders. Field in abstract design, while
the borders and pallavs have butas on abstract floral mosaic background.
This beautiful Maharaja Shawl has a black medallion as the central motif surrounded by various paisley motifs of varied hues
of red, which creates a striking offset. This particular shawl has a harlequin border which further enhances the visual of the piece.
Single cut shawl as originally designed, though probably woven in several pieces joined with invisible seams. The style adopted is Jacquard-type, vertically and horizontally symmetrical. Long
scroll-like butas with multicoloured fringe-tabs.
This Dorukha Pashmina shawl is a single cut piece and has extensive Chinar leaf
motif. The adopted iconography is one of the trademark motif used by artisans,
and it is the main motif embroidered throughout this particular shawl. Along
with the chinar leaf there is intricate floral work surrounding each leaf design,
executed on a pastel green ground.
An intricate embroidery going outwards from the black medallion weaved at the center of the shawl. It is covered with various motifs ranging from paisley to almond shaped
motifs to delicate buta motifs along the border. The colour palette adopted captures the essence of royalty.
This kind of single cut piece Jamawar shawl were once coveted by royalty such as , Mughal kings, Sikh Maharajas, Iranian Nobles,
French Emperors, as well as Russian and British aristocrats among others. This is a single Jamawar shawl woven with paisley motifs. It has black silk thread embroidery done on a white ground.
This particular piece has Dorukha embroidery, the design around the border is geometrically spaced, slender floral mosaic, which
is reminiscent of the old Mughal style of embroidery. This gentle red embroidery around the border gives this shawl an elegant
look. Palledar style with principle corner butas.
A quintessential feature of the Maharaja shawl is a complex embroidered black medallion at the center. This shawl comprises of a black star-shaped medallion, flanked by various paisley motifs in different hues of red. A harlequin border has been
added to this piece. Jacquard-type design, vertically and horizontally symmetrical. Variation of colour on the 2 horizontal halves. Long scroll-like butas.
An exquisite Doranga and Dorukha Pashmina shawl with intricate Aksi embroidery appliqued work incorporated on
the border section. Applique is a technique where the smaller pieces of fabric is stitched on to the larger one. It
has a very slender buta motif embroidery as a border, which is red on one side and brown on the opposite.
This Pashmina is made of a single cut piece. The centre field is plain while the border embroidery work if famous as Hassan
Quli style, named after the Mughal court artisan Hassan Quli who invented this technique. Through this technique the
motifs are made to mirror with great accuracy on both the facets. It is a dorredar and dorukha type of pashmina since it
has embroidered border on all sides of the shawl.