Roger Dubuis Watches: History, Features & Best Models

When it comes to pushing the boundaries of modern watchmaking, few names resonate with the same audacity as Roger Dubuis. Known for his bold designs, avant-garde skeletonization, and fearless approach to haute horlogerie, Roger Dubuis has carved out a niche where performance meets extravagance. This complete guide takes you through the history, key innovations, and the cultural significance of a brand that thrives on excess in the best possible way.

Consider this article not just another guide to the best Roger Dubuis watches but a deeper dive into the legacy & genius of one of watchmaking’s most iconic designers. While it offers insight for collectors and buyers alike, it also tells the story behind Roger Dubuis' most influential creations, blending both history and horological artistry in one place.

This article sheds light on:
• History
• Evolution
• Key Features
• Innovations
• Roger Dubuis Watches Worn By The World’s Most Powerful People
• Most Famous Roger Dubuis Watches
• Which Roger Dubuis Watches Are Appreciating Fastest in 2025
• Collecting Roger Dubuis Watches: Tips & Insights
• Influence Of Roger Dubuis Watches On Modern Watch Designers

Roger Dubuis Watches

Roger Dubuis (pronounced as: Row-zhay Doo-bwee) watches refer both to meticulously crafted timepieces designed by the legendary Swiss watchmaker Roger Dubuis and to luxury watches produced under his own eponymous brand, founded in Geneva in 1995 with designer Carlos Dias. Drawing upon Dubuis’s extensive experience in the complications division of Patek Philippe, the brand quickly distinguished itself for combining traditional Geneva watchmaking techniques with avant-garde aesthetics and technical innovation. Known for their bold skeletonized movements, oversized cases, and the prestigious Poinçon de Genève (Geneva Seal) certification, Roger Dubuis watches are not just instruments of timekeeping but expressions of art, innovation, and status. Each piece reflects the brand’s philosophy of Hyper Horology, where cutting-edge engineering meets radical aesthetics, appealing to collectors who value both rarity and mechanical daring.

Who Was Roger Dubuis

Roger Dubuis was a renowned Swiss watchmaker born in Corbeyrier, Vaud, in 1938, whose passion for watchmaking began as a child inspired by the village church clocktower. He started his career at Longines in the late 1950s, honing his skills in after-sales repairs before moving to Geneva to work for Patek Philippe, where he spent nearly two decades in the complications department building some of the most complex calibers in Swiss horology. After setting up his own workshop in the 1980s, Dubuis developed innovative mechanisms like the bi-retrograde perpetual calendar with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht for Harry Winston, establishing himself as a master of creative complication design. In 1995, at age 57, he co-founded his eponymous watch maison with Carlos Dias, blending traditional craftsmanship with avant-garde creativity; a legacy that continues to inspire watchmaking even after his passing in 2017.

Roger Dubuis Watch History

Roger Dubuis, a watchmaker trained at Patek Philippe, founded his eponymous brand in 1995. Partnering with designer Carlos Dias, he combined centuries-old horological mastery with cutting-edge, futuristic aesthetics. From the very beginning, the brand positioned itself as a disruptor breaking away from traditional Swiss conservatism and instead embracing audacity, limited editions, and highly technical movements certified by the Poinçon de Genève (Geneva Seal).

Evolution

In less than three decades, Roger Dubuis has evolved from an independent upstart to a global powerhouse within Richemont Group. Its collections have been distilled into bold families such as Excalibur, Velvet, and Knights of the Round Table. The emphasis has always been on skeletonized architecture, large dimensions, and intricate complications turning timepieces into wearable mechanical sculptures.

Who Owns Roger Dubuis Watches

Roger Dubuis watches are currently owned by the Richemont Group, a Swiss luxury goods conglomerate that also owns iconic brands like Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre. Richemont first acquired a 60% stake in Roger Dubuis in 2008 and completed full ownership by buying the remaining 40% in 2016. Under Richemont's stewardship, Roger Dubuis has continued to innovate with limited-edition high-complication watches, maintaining its reputation for avant-garde design and hyper horology.

Key Features

Roger Dubuis watches are instantly recognizable. Some defining traits include:
•    Skeletonized movements showcasing gears and bridges as art.
•    Oversized cases, often 42mm–47mm, designed to command attention.
•    Poinçon de Genève certification, ensuring the highest finishing standards.
•    Avant-garde design language, fusing medieval inspiration (Excalibur) with contemporary edge.
•    Exclusive production, with most models limited to a handful of pieces.

Innovations

Roger Dubuis has consistently been at the forefront of horological experimentation:
•    Double, Triple, and Quadruple Tourbillons – pushing mechanical limits.
•    Carbon and titanium cases – lightweight yet futuristic.
•    Astral Skeleton design – bridges shaped like stars for architectural depth.
•    Hyper Horology philosophy – a blend of watchmaking, architecture, and performance.
Collaborations with Lamborghini Squadra Corse and Pirelli have further elevated the brand’s identity, linking the adrenaline of motorsport with haute horlogerie.

Roger Dubuis Watches Worn by the World’s Most Powerful People

Despite their rarity, Roger Dubuis watches have found homes on the wrists of influential figures:
•    Jay-Z and LeBron James have both been spotted wearing skeletonized Excaliburs.
•    Gerard Butler famously sported Roger Dubuis in Olympus Has Fallen.
•    Several Middle Eastern royals and business magnates favor limited-edition Velvet and Excalibur models as symbols of taste and power.

Roger Dubuis Famous Watches

Below, we explore the most famous Roger Dubuis watches that have defined the maison’s unique place in the world of luxury horology.

• Excalibur Double Tourbillon - The Excalibur Double Tourbillon is the cornerstone of Roger Dubuis’ fame. Featuring two flying tourbillons linked by a differential, it demonstrates both technical brilliance and architectural beauty. Its skeletonized bridges, sharp angles, and bold 45mm case have made it an unmistakable icon for the brand.

• Knights of the Round Table - A legendary series in modern watchmaking, the Knights of the Round Table combines horology with storytelling. Each hour marker is a miniature knight, sculpted by hand and set around a dial crafted from materials like enamel, jade, or aventurine. Every edition is unique, limited, and highly collectible blurring the line between art and watchmaking.

• Excalibur Spider Pirelli - The Excalibur Spider Pirelli showcases Roger Dubuis’ partnership with Formula 1 racing. These skeletonized watches feature straps made from actual Pirelli winning tires and cases crafted from lightweight carbon or titanium. They embody the brand’s philosophy of Hyper Horology, merging performance, innovation, and adrenaline.

• Velvet Collection - The Velvet Collection brings Roger Dubuis’ audacity into the world of women’s watches. Known for its elegant, gem-set designs combined with skeletonized calibers, the Velvet series redefines feminine watchmaking. It appeals to women who want glamour without sacrificing horological depth.

• Excalibur Quatuor - The Excalibur Quatuor is one of the most groundbreaking mechanical achievements in modern watchmaking. Instead of relying on one balance wheel, it uses four balances working simultaneously to counteract gravitational effects in all positions. This radical concept cemented Roger Dubuis’ reputation for technical fearlessness.

• Roger Dubuis Lamborghini Squadra Corse - The Roger Dubuis Lamborghini Squadra Corse collaboration is a high-octane partnership born in 2017 that combines cutting-edge Swiss watchmaking with the bold spirit and technical expertise of Lamborghini's motorsport division, Squadra Corse. This alliance produces audacious, limited-edition timepieces that embody performance, avant-garde design, and innovative materials such as carbon fiber and titanium akin to those used in Lamborghini supercars. A highlight is the Excalibur Aventador S, a watch inspired by the Aventador's engine, featuring the Duotor movement with two inclined balance wheels simulating the car’s engine strut bars. The watch's design, technical complexity, and use of racing motifs reflect both brands' shared ethos of daring innovation and exclusivity. The partnership actively supports the Lamborghini Super Trofeo racing series, emphasizing precision and adrenaline in both automotive racing and horology. Roger Dubuis x Lamborghini Squadra Corse watches are prized by collectors for their rare combination of performance engineering and bold, distinctive aesthetics.

• Roger Dubuis Golden Square - The Roger Dubuis Golden Square is a distinctive collection known for its elegantly curved square case that hugs the wrist, available in sizes ranging from 34mm to 43mm. These watches typically feature precious metals such as 18K rose or white gold and are often paired with luxurious black or colored alligator leather straps. One standout model is the Golden Square Perpetual Calendar, which boasts a perfectly square, cambered 40mm case with a finely detailed opaline dial exhibiting exploded Roman numerals, multiple calendar complications including a moon phase in lapis lazuli, and an automatic RD 5739 calibre that is an Observatory Chronometer for precision. The design blends classical elegance with technical sophistication, and the watch includes polished sapphire crystal backs showcasing exquisite movement finishing with Geneva stripes and anglage. Other notable variations include skeletonized dials and diamond-set bezels, emphasizing the brand’s flair for luxury and craftsmanship. The Golden Square line exemplifies Roger Dubuis’s commitment to bold, architectural design married with high horology.

Which Roger Dubuis Watches Are Appreciating Fastest in 2025

The secondary market for Roger Dubuis has surged, especially as collectors seek ultra-limited editions. In 2025, the models appreciating the fastest include:
•    Excalibur Spider Carbon Skeleton Tourbillon – scarcity and avant-garde materials drive demand.
•    Excalibur Knights of the Round Table VIII – highly collectible due to artistic craftsmanship.
•    Early double tourbillon Excaliburs – increasingly recognized as foundational pieces in modern independent watchmaking.

Collecting Roger Dubuis Watches: Tips & Insights

•    Focus on rarity – limited editions are almost always the best investments.
•    Condition matters – servicing by the brand is crucial for maintaining Geneva Seal certification.
•    Look for historical significance – early 2000s models with complex calibers are particularly attractive to seasoned collectors.
•    Think long term – Roger Dubuis has only been around since 1995, meaning its “vintage” period hasn’t yet matured. This could translate to explosive value growth over the next 10–20 years.

Influence of Roger Dubuis Watches on Modern Watch Designers

Roger Dubuis’ fearless approach has had a ripple effect across the luxury watch industry. The widespread adoption of openworked dials, the blending of motorsport aesthetics with haute horlogerie, and the rise of oversized, architectural case designs can all trace influence back to Dubuis. Independent brands like Richard Mille and MB&F share similar philosophies, while even traditional houses have increasingly embraced skeletonization and avant-garde presentations.

Roger Dubuis Watch Price

Roger Dubuis watches are positioned in the high luxury segment, with prices reflecting their exclusivity, craftsmanship, and technical complexity. Prices typically start around $36,000 and can soar above $360,000 depending on the model and complications. For example, popular models like the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider range between $120,000 to $380,000, while the Velvet collection, known for its elegant design, tends to start from $31,000 up to $215,000. The Excalibur Grande Complication, one of the most complex and exclusive models, is priced around $790,000. Prices vary based on materials such as rose gold, titanium, carbon, gemstone settings and limited-edition status.

Why Are Roger Dubuis Watches So Expensive?

Roger Dubuis watches are expensive due to their extraordinary craftsmanship and exclusivity. The brand produces fewer than 5,000 watches annually, making each piece rare and highly sought-after. Their timepieces are meticulously handcrafted in-house, with movements composed of hundreds of intricate components made from premium materials like gold, titanium, diamond, cobalt, and ceramics. Complex models such as the Excalibur Quatuor can take over 2,000 hours to produce and include advanced features like four sprung balances working in harmony to counter gravity. Furthermore, Roger Dubuis watches carry the prestigious Geneva Seal, guaranteeing outstanding quality and finishing. This combination of rarity, high technical complexity, premium materials, and rigorous standards contributes to their luxury pricing and strong investment value.

Final Thoughts

Roger Dubuis is not a brand for the timid. It’s a brand for those who want their watch to be an extension of their personality, boldness, and appetite for artistry. From hyper-technical skeleton movements to watches worn by world leaders and celebrities, Roger Dubuis continues to hold its position as the King of Hyper Horology.