Harry Winston Watches - History, Design, Specifications, Features & Famous Models

Harry Winston watches represent the perfect fusion of luxury, artistry, and precision. Renowned worldwide for its legendary diamonds and high-end jewelry, the Harry Winston brand has seamlessly extended its expertise into the realm of haute horology. Each timepiece reflects the same meticulous attention to detail, exceptional craftsmanship, and innovative design that have defined the brand since its inception, making these watches symbols of elegance and sophistication.

Beyond their aesthetic brilliance, Harry Winston watches are celebrated for their mechanical ingenuity and horological innovation. From the daring complications of the Opus series to the timeless elegance of the Emerald and Ocean collections, each watch combines artistry with engineering mastery. Worn by celebrities and coveted by collectors, these timepieces not only tell time; they tell a story of creativity, exclusivity, and enduring legacy in the world of luxury watches.

Consider this article not just another guide to the best Harry Winston watches but a deeper dive into the legacy & genius of one of watchmaking’s most iconic designers. While it offers insight for collectors and buyers alike, it also tells the story behind Harry Winston’s most influential creations, blending both history and horological artistry in one place.

This article also sheds light on:
• Harry Winston’s Watch Design Philosophy
• Materials and Craftsmanship
• Their Most Famous Watch Models
• Harry Winston Watches Collectability & Market Trends
• Harry Winston’s Influence on Modern Watchmaking

Who Was Harry Winston?

Harry Winston, often hailed as the “King of Diamonds” was an American jeweler renowned for transforming the jewelry industry by making the diamond the star of each piece. Founded in 1932, his company revolutionized fine jewelry with an ethos that the gem should dictate the design, not vice versa. Beyond jewelry, Winston extended his legacy into watchmaking, blending his passion for gems with the craft of timepiece design.

From Jewelry to Horology

Founded in 1932 by Harry Winston himself, the brand initially focused on exceptional diamonds and jewelry, adorning celebrities and royalty. It wasn’t until 1989 that Harry Winston entered the watch world, launching its first timepieces under the "Premier" collection. A major turning point came in 2013, when Swatch Group, one of the world’s largest watch conglomerates, acquired Harry Winston. This move elevated the brand’s horological capabilities and expanded its reach globally.

Origin & History

The Harry Winston company was established in New York and rose to prominence by lending exquisite diamonds to Hollywood stars beginning in the 1940s, which earned it the nickname “Jeweler to the Stars”. Entering the watch world in 1989 with the Premier Collection, Harry Winston combined its jewelry expertise with Swiss watchmaking traditions. Since 2007, watch production expanded with a dedicated manufacture in Geneva. Now part of the Swatch Group, the brand integrates American glamour with Swiss precision horology.

Acquisition of Breguet 

In 1999, Harry Winston’s parent company acquired Breguet, a historic Swiss watchmaker, signaling serious ambitions in haute horlogerie. However, in 2013, the Swatch Group bought Harry Winston’s watch division, while the jewelry arm remained independent. Despite this shift, Harry Winston watches continue to be highly exclusive, often featuring rare gemstones, avant-garde designs, and complex movements.

Major Milestones

1. 1989 – Launch of the Premier Collection
The Premier Collection was Harry Winston’s inaugural watch line and remains a cornerstone of the brand. With its signature three-arch lug design a nod to the entrance of the Fifth Avenue salon Premier set the tone for the brand’s fusion of jewellery and horology.
2. 2001 – Creation of the Opus Series
A revolutionary concept, the Opus Series was introduced by then-CEO Max Büsser (later of MB&F). Harry Winston began collaborating with independent watchmakers annually to create unique, avant-garde watches. This series elevated the brand’s standing among haute horlogerie connoisseurs.
Each Opus watch, from Opus 1 through Opus 14, presented groundbreaking complications and bold designs. Notable contributors include F.P. Journe, Vianney Halter, and Urwerk.
3. 2004 – Launch of the Project Z Series
Pushing material innovation, the Project Z series introduced Zalium, a lightweight, corrosion-resistant alloy exclusive to Harry Winston. Combining technical strength with contemporary aesthetics, this series appealed to a younger, sportier clientele.
4. 2007 – Opening of Manufacture in Geneva
Establishing a dedicated manufacture allowed the brand to develop in-house movements and ensure quality control, bringing it in line with the best Swiss watchmakers.
5. 2013 – Acquisition by Swatch Group
Swatch Group’s acquisition brought greater technical resources and distribution networks, helping Harry Winston expand its watchmaking expertise and global presence.

Design Philosophy

Harry Winston watches embody an artistic philosophy where jewelry principles guide watch design. Signature motifs include the three arches referencing the brand's Fifth Avenue salon façade and the emerald cut, Winston’s favorite diamond shape. The watches merge luxurious materials with architectural aesthetics, reflecting an Art Deco influence and celebrating the interplay of form, light and function.

Materials and Craftsmanship

Every Harry Winston watch is a masterpiece crafted in Switzerland, integrating precious metals like 18k gold and platinum, exclusive alloys such as Zalium, and top-grade diamonds. The brand meticulously selects diamonds graded Internally Flawless to Very Very Slightly Included with the highest color ratings (D, E, F), ensuring brilliance and clarity. Craftsmanship extends beyond setting stones; movements are finished with Geneva stripes and anglage, capturing mechanical refinement alongside beauty.

Techniques

Harry Winston pioneered pioneering techniques including the use of rare alloys Zalium and Winstonium for lightweight, durable cases. The brand also employs intricate gem-setting on challenging curved surfaces and incorporates arts such as Grand Feu enamel and plumasserie (feather marquetry) in selected models. Movements are crafted with horological innovation, blending artistry with complex mechanics in limited editions.

Notable Innovations

Some of Harry Winston’s standout innovations include:
•    Zalium alloy for superior strength and lightness uniquely developed by Harry Winston.
•    The Opus Collection, a collaboration with leading independent watchmakers, producing avant-garde mechanical masterpieces.
•    The Histoire de Tourbillon series featuring multi-axis and multiple tourbillons designed for precision and visual impact.
•    Incorporation of rare fabric weaving and advanced mechanical complications pushing design and technical boundaries.

Harry Winston Watches Worn by Celebrities

Harry Winston watches and jewelry have adorned Hollywood stars and royalty alike:
•    Angelina Jolie – on red carpets
•    Jennifer Lopez – at award ceremonies
•    Queen Elizabeth II – during official events

Famous Harry Winston Watches

Harry Winston has produced some of the most iconic watches in horological history. Some of the prominent models include:

1. Premier Collection: Elegant and timeless, the Premier line often incorporates diamonds, mother-of-pearl, and intricate dials. It remains a favorite among collectors seeking refined yet unique timepieces.
• Must-Know Model: Premier Moon Phase 36mm – A stunning blend of astronomy and jewellery, with a poetic moon phase display framed in diamonds.

2. Opus Series: The Opus line is where art meets mechanical genius. Each piece is a collector’s dream, often produced in extremely limited numbers.
• Must-Know Model: Opus 11 – Features a deconstructed time display where numerals mechanically assemble and disassemble every hour.

3. Histoire de Tourbillon: This collection explores the boundaries of tourbillon complications, offering highly complex and visually dramatic pieces.
• Must-Know Model: Histoire de Tourbillon 10 – A bold statement featuring four tourbillons working in harmony.

4. Ocean Collection: Designed with a more contemporary and sporty aesthetic, the Ocean series includes chronographs, dual time zones, and retrograde displays.
• Must-Know Model: Ocean Biretrograde Automatic 36mm – Known for its off-centered time display and symmetrical retrograde counters.

5. Midnight Collection: Sleek and minimal, the Midnight collection emphasizes elegance, making it ideal for formal wear.
• Must-Know Model: Midnight Date Moon Phase Automatic 42mm – A refined expression of moon phase artistry and precision.

6. Project Z: This series combines futuristic design with advanced materials, especially the signature Zalium cases.
•    Must-Know Model: Project Z14 – Offers a retrograde seconds display and openworked dial in a rugged yet luxurious construction.

Luxury Watches Designed by Harry Winston

The brand’s luxury watches combine high jewelry and haute horlogerie, showcasing diamonds and precious stones within technically sophisticated cases. Models frequently use platinum, gold, and exclusive alloys, integrated with mechanical complications such as perpetual calendars, retrograde displays, and chronographs. Harry Winston’s high jewelry timepieces are visual spectacles and technical marvels. Key collections include:

•    Emerald Collection – classic elegance
•    Ocean Collection – technical sophistication
•    Premier Collection – high-jewelry aesthetics
•    Opus Series – boundary-pushing innovations

What Makes Harry Winston Watches Special?

Harry Winston watches are known for their:
•    Aesthetic excellence: Timeless designs that blend elegance and technical expertise.
•    High-end movements: Sophisticated mechanisms, such as tourbillons and biretrograde complications, demonstrate the brand's horological prowess.
•    Quality craftsmanship: Attention to detail and the use of precious materials, like gold and diamonds, ensure that each timepiece is a masterpiece.

Which Harry Winston Watches Are Appreciating Fastest in 2025

As of 2025, the watches seeing the fastest appreciation include:
•    Opus Series – especially Opus 13 and Opus 14 due to limited production.
•    Ocean Dual Time Limited Editions – high demand among collectors.
•    Premier High Jewelry Models – rare diamond-set watches continue to grow in value.

Who Should Buy A Harry Winston Watch?

• High-net-worth collectors who want ultra-rare, artistic timepieces.
• Luxury enthusiasts who appreciate gem-setting and haute horlogerie.
• Investors eyeing future auction stars.

Collecting Harry Winston Watches: Tips & Insights

Collectors should seek limited editions, notably the Opus and Histoire de Tourbillon series, for their rarity and horological significance. Provenance, condition, and the presence of unique materials like Zalium impact value. Given the brand’s dual legacy in jewelry and watchmaking, watches with exceptional gem quality tend to appreciate and maintain high demand among collectors.

Influence of Harry Winston Watches on Modern Watch Designers

Harry Winston’s integration of jewelry artistry with horological complexity has inspired modern designers to blend aesthetics with mechanics creatively. The brand’s pioneering use of new alloys and its Opus series collaborations have raised industry standards for innovation and cross-disciplinary craftsmanship in luxury watchmaking.

Harry Winston Legacy

Harry Winston’s legacy is one of brilliance and innovation, transforming the perception of gems and timepieces. The brand continues to push boundaries in design, materials, and mechanics while upholding Winston’s original vision of “only the exceptional.” As a jeweler and watchmaker, Harry Winston remains a symbol of luxury, creativity, and technical excellence.

Final Thoughts

Harry Winston watches stand at the intersection of high jewelry and fine watchmaking, offering collectors a blend of technical mastery, artistic design, and exclusivity. From the pioneering Opus collaborations to the record-setting Histoire de Tourbillon, each milestone and model tells a story of innovation and luxury that continues to captivate watch enthusiasts worldwide. For any connoisseur seeking horological innovation with a jeweller’s soul, Harry Winston watches are milestones worth knowing and wearing.