AstaGuru’s “The Exceptionals – Jewellery, Timepieces & Silver” Auction, being held during May 12-13, 2023, has an impressive selection of timepieces. The usual suspects – Audemars Piguet, Cartier, IWC, Omega, Rolex, as well as several others are very well represented. The selection includes vintage, contemporary and recent, including impressive high end jewellery pieces. It covers varying styles and price points, and there is something of interest for most collectors looking to add a timepiece or two to their collection. I take this opportunity to highlight my Top 6 Picks.

LOT No. 74: A. Lange & Söhne: 1815 Automatic Sax-O-Mat Rose Gold Wristwatch: Reference 303.032

A. Lange & Söhne’s 1815 is among the most prestigious and beautiful dress watch families in the world. “1815” refers to the year the brand’s founder – Ferdinand Adolph Lange – was born. Its bold Arabic numerals and hand-wound calibres are a prominent feature of the collection. Timepieces in this collection range from simple time-only pieces to annual-calendars and chronographs to grand-complications such as tourbillons and split-second chronographs.
The 1815 Automatic Sax-O-Mat in rose gold offered in this auction is a rarity in the world of A. Lange & Söhne. Lange incorporated the simple 1815 hours-minutes-small seconds timepiece with its legendary Sax-O-Mat calibre L921.4, which was produced only during 2004-2006. With its off-centre 21K gold rotor, centrifugal mass in platinum, 378 components, 45 jewels, and Zero-Reset mechanism (hacking seconds), it is modern Lange’s first automatic calibre, and considered one of the finest in the world. For several years, the Sax-O-Mat was a cornerstone of Lange’s Saxonia family’s time-only pieces. Today, Lange only uses this calibre in a Saxonia grand complication – Langematik Perpetual. Who knows, perhaps the days of this legendary calibre are numbered. For the collector who has an appreciation for Lange timepieces, is seeking a timeless dress watch with a sophisticated and beautifully finished automatic calibre, grab this while you can.

LOT No. 93: Patek Philippe “Gondolo Calendario” Annual Calendar 18K Yellow Gold Wristwatch: Reference 5135J

and LOT No.180: Patek Philippe Nautilus Stainless Steel Wristwatch: Reference 5726/1A-010

Patek Philippe is the undisputed King of many accomplishments in the world of horology; the Annual Calendar complication being one of them. They launched the first serially produced annual calendar timepiece, the Reference 5035, in 1996. An Annual Calendar is like a Perpetual Calendar in that the months adjust for 30 or 31 days; except for the month of February, where it must be manually adjusted.
Both the Lots offered here are excellent examples of Patek Philippe’s annual calendars.

Reference 5135J – Patek Philippe “Gondolo Calendario” Annual Calendar in 18K Yellow Gold, now discontinued, belongs to Patek Philippe’s Gondolo collection, a form watch collection. Its name ‘Gondolo’ was derived from the ‘Chronometro Gondolo’ watches that were crafted for the famous Brazilian retailer – Goldolo & Labouriau – between 1902 and 1930. This reference has three apertures for day of the week, date, and month on an arc on the top portion of the dial, and a subdial at 6 o’clock featuring a moonphase display and 24-hour time display. It is powered by in-house automatic calibre 324 S QA LU 24H/205.

Reference 5726/1A-010 – Patek Philippe Nautilus in Stainless Steel, now discontinued in this satin white dial colour, belongs to Patek Philippe’s Nautilus family, a versatile sports watch collection, designed by famed designer Gerald Genta. Its design resembles the porthole of a ship. The Nautilus collection needs no introduction and is among the most sought-after timepieces in the world. This reference has apertures for day of the week and month between the centre of the dial and 12 o’clock, and an aperture for date and a sub dial featuring a moonphase display and 24-hour time display at 6 o’clock. It is powered by in-house automatic calibre 324 S QA LU 24H/303.
Both the Lots highlight Patek Philippe’s expertise in both Annual Calendar expertise as well as case aesthetics, as each reference is clothed differently. Reference 5135J in a vintage inspired 18K yellow gold form case, and Reference 5726/1A-010 in a contemporary Nautilus stainless steel case. Irrespective of whether one chooses Lot No. 93 or 180, each is a winner and a quintessential Patek Philippe.

LOT No. 99: Piaget Polo 18K Yellow Gold Wristwatch: Reference: 7131C 701 Polo

First introduced in 1979, the Piaget Polo is a 1980’s icon. Its an integrated bracelet timepiece that highlights Piaget’s expertise in gold craftsmanship.
Piaget is celebrating its 150th anniversary this year, and as part of its celebrations, has launched the Polo 79 with an ultra-thin in-house calibre.
Even more reason to grab the Lot offered here, which is circa 1985 – from the exact period the Polo collection achieved its cult status. Back then, the Polo was powered by a quartz calibre, and the reference 7131C 701 Polo is powered by Calibre 7P3 Quartz. Lot No. 99 is a fabulous opportunity to acquire a 1980’s icon as well as gold craftsmanship in a timepiece that is second to none.
LOT No. 121: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Dual Time 18K Rose Gold Wristwatch: Reference 26120OR.OO.D088CR.01

Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak is a Gerald Genta designed horological icon, and among the most sought-after timepieces in the world. The Lot offered here is a beautiful example as it combines a Dual Time function in a silver “Grande Tapisserie” dial housed in an 18K rose gold Royal Oak octagonal case. It is worth noting that the self-winding calibre 2329 that powers this timepiece is based on a Jaeger-LeCoultre ebauche, which has also been used in Jaeger-LeCoultre and Vacheron Constantin timepieces. Lot No. 121 is gorgeous, and a great iteration of the Royal Oak family.

LOT No. 151: Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 18K Rose Gold Wristwatch: Reference 43175/000R-B343

Vacheron Constantin’s Patrimony Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is a grand complication timepiece. It is an excellent opportunity for a collector to acquire a traditional perpetual calendar in a gorgeous slate-grey dial, housed in a round 18K rose gold Patrimony case, and crafted by the oldest continuous watchmaker in existence and among the most prestigious. What makes this timepiece even more special is that its calibre 1120 QP/1 is based on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s calibre 920. Introduced in 1967, calibre 920 is the only calibre used by all three of the Holy Trinity of Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. It has never been used by Jaeger-LeCoultre in their own timepieces. This calibre is a legend in the world of timepieces, and perhaps its days are numbered. Lot No. 151 is a truly special timepiece and a fitting example of what makes Vacheron Constantin such a special watchmaker.

Written by Kunal P. Khemka
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