Mb&F Watches - History, Design, Specifications, Features & Famous Models

MB&F, short for Maximilian Büsser & Friends, is an avant-garde Swiss luxury watch brand renowned for its radical and artistic approach to traditional watchmaking. Founded in 2005, MB&F is recognized for creating three-dimensional kinetic horological art pieces that challenge mainstream conventions of the watch industry, blending innovation, craftsmanship and visionary design.

Consider this article not just another guide to the best MB&F watches but a deeper dive into the legacy & genius of one of watchmaking’s most iconic designers. While it offers insight for collectors and buyers alike, it also tells the story behind MB&F’s most influential creations, blending both history and horological artistry in one place.

This article also sheds light on:

• MB&F's Watch Design Philosophy
• Materials and Craftsmanship
• MB&F's Most Famous Watch Models
• MB&F Watches Collectability & Market Trends
• MB&F’s Influence on Modern Watchmaking

Origin & History

Founded by Maximilian Büsser in Geneva in 2005, MB&F emerged from Büsser’s desire to create watches that transcended traditional time-telling devices. After his successful leadership roles at Jaeger-LeCoultre and Harry Winston Rare Timepieces, where he developed the famed Opus series, Büsser launched MB&F to produce watches as sculptural, mechanical artworks. The brand introduced its first Horological Machine (HM1) in 2007, setting a new standard for unconventional watch designs characterized by three-dimensionality and innovative engineering.

Who Is Maximilian Büsser

Maximilian Büsser is a Swiss entrepreneur and engineer, born in Milan to a Swiss diplomat father and Indian mother. Educated at the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (EPFL) in microtechnology, Büsser began his career at Jaeger-LeCoultre before moving on to become CEO of Harry Winston Rare Timepieces. There, he created the groundbreaking Opus series with independent watchmakers, which gave him the inspiration to start MB&F and revolutionize horology with kinetic sculptures. His vision is to keep MB&F a small, creative team focused on pushing boundaries without compromising artistic integrity.

Design Philosophy

MB&F’s design philosophy revolves around creating "Horological Machines" that are not merely watches but three-dimensional kinetic sculptures. Rejecting the notion that watches must look conventional, the brand focuses on storytelling, biomorphic shapes, and futuristic or fantastical themes such as space, architecture, and nature. The creations emphasize radical aesthetics combined with haute horlogerie mechanics, often exploring new forms and breaking mechanical norms.

Materials and Craftsmanship

MB&F employs a diverse range of materials in its timepieces, including titanium, sapphire crystal, and various alloys. The brand collaborates with skilled artisans to achieve exceptional craftsmanship, ensuring that each watch is meticulously assembled and finished to the highest standards. This commitment to quality is evident in the intricate details and flawless execution of every MB&F creation.

Techniques

The brand utilizes advanced horological techniques, such as triple-axis tourbillons and unique escapement systems, to enhance the precision and visual appeal of its timepieces. For instance, the Legacy Machine Thunderdome features the world's fastest triple-axis regulating mechanism, with axes revolving in record-breaking times of 8, 12, and 20 seconds.

Notable Innovations

• The introduction of the "Horological Machines" series which redefines watchmaking in 3D sculptural form.
• Revolutionary movement designs tailored to fit highly unconventional cases with unusual ergonomics.
• Use of detailed hand-finishing techniques applied inside and outside the movement and case, visible through sapphire crystals in multidimensional ways.
• The Legacy Machine series, which reinterprets 19th-century watchmaking complications with modern aesthetics.

M.A.D Gallery

MB&F extends its creative vision beyond watches through the M.A.D Gallery (Mechanical Art Devices), a space dedicated to exhibiting kinetic art machines created by MB&F and invited artists. The gallery serves as a cultural extension of the brand’s ethos, celebrating mechanical creativity in art form.

Mb&F Watches Worn By Celebrities

MB&F's avant-garde designs have garnered attention from celebrities and public figures. Actor Aldis Hodge has been spotted wearing an MB&F timepiece, showcasing the brand's appeal among those with a discerning taste for unique and innovative designs.

Famous Mb&F Watches

Below, we explore some of the most famous MB&F watches, creations that have defined the brand’s legacy and inspired a new generation of watchmakers.

1. Horological Machine No.1 (HM1) – The Beginning of a Revolution

Unveiled in 2007, the HM1 marked MB&F’s debut and immediately set the tone for the brand’s future. It featured two mainspring barrels connected in parallel and a complex gear system displayed in a dramatically sculpted case. The design challenged the idea of traditional watchmaking, introducing a three-dimensional architecture that became MB&F’s signature. HM1 wasn’t just a watch, it was a declaration that horology could be art.

2. Horological Machine No.3 “Frog” – Playfulness Meets Precision

Released in 2010, the HM3 “Frog” captured attention with its whimsical, creature-like design. The two large domes resembling frog eyes displayed the hours and minutes, rotating under sapphire crystal bubbles. Beneath its playful façade was a complex movement designed with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, featuring a 22-karat gold battle-axe rotor. The HM3 “Frog” remains one of MB&F’s most recognizable and collectible models.

3. HM4 “Thunderbolt” – Aviation in Motion

Inspired by World War II fighter jets, the HM4 Thunderbolt (2010) looked like something straight out of a sci-fi movie. Two parallel pods; one showing the time, the other the power reserve were connected by a central turbine-like body. It took MB&F three years of research and development to perfect the movement’s dual gear trains. The Thunderbolt became a masterpiece of mechanical aeronautics and cemented MB&F’s reputation for engineering audacity.

4. Legacy Machine No.1 (LM1) – Bridging Past and Future

While the Horological Machines represented the future, the Legacy Machine No.1, launched in 2011, was MB&F’s tribute to the 19th-century masters of traditional watchmaking. With its elegantly domed crystal and a massive suspended balance wheel floating above two independent time displays, LM1 blended old-world beauty with futuristic mechanics. It was co-created with Jean-François Mojon and Kari Voutilainen, earning the Best Men’s Watch award at the Geneva Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2012.

5. Legacy Machine Perpetual – Reinventing the Perpetual Calendar

Introduced in 2015, the LM Perpetual revolutionized one of horology’s most complex complications. Traditional perpetual calendars rely on delicate levers prone to malfunction; MB&F’s innovation replaced that with a “mechanical processor”, a patented system that eliminates skipped dates and damage risk. With its open dial showcasing the floating balance and intricate subdials, the LM Perpetual became a technical and visual triumph, earning the Calendar Watch Prize at GPHG 2016.

6. HM7 “Aquapod” – The Jellyfish of Time

Taking inspiration from marine life, the HM7 Aquapod (2017) introduced MB&F’s first aquatic-themed watch. Its concentric design mimicked the anatomy of a jellyfish, complete with a central flying tourbillon glowing under bioluminescent-style lume. The vertical movement structure and spherical sapphire dome case made it a breathtaking fusion of art, ocean, and mechanics. Though water-inspired, the Aquapod is not a dive watch, it’s an underwater dream for the wrist.

7. HM9 “Flow” – The Retro-Futuristic Racer

The Horological Machine No.9 “Flow” (2018) was MB&F’s tribute to the 1940s’ automotive and aviation design language. The case resembled an Art Deco jet engine, with dual balance wheels visible through its aerodynamic pods. Inside, a differential combined their outputs for optimal precision. The HM9 is both mechanical sculpture and performance art, encapsulating MB&F’s devotion to blending nostalgia and innovation.

8. HM10 “Bulldog” – Personality in a Watch

The HM10 Bulldog (2020) is one of MB&F’s most characterful designs. With its “face” made of twin domes showing the hours and minutes, and a visible “jaw” for the power reserve (which opens and closes like a dog’s mouth), this timepiece embodies humor and craftsmanship. The sapphire dome case gives the watch an animal-like life, and its titanium construction ensures comfort despite its bold presence. Collectors admire it as one of MB&F’s most expressive pieces.

9. LM101 EVO – A Modern Evolution

Released in 2021 and updated for MB&F’s 20th Anniversary in 2025, the LM101 EVO represents a refinement of MB&F’s core values: fluid design, shock resistance (thanks to its monobloc case and “FlexRing” suspension), and accessible luxury. The LM101 is also significant as the first movement designed entirely in-house by MB&F. The 2025 anniversary model in titanium with subtle colorways continues to attract both new collectors and long-time fans.

10. M.A.D.1 Red and M.A.D.1S – The Democratic Masterpiece

The M.A.D.1 series, launched under the “M.A.D.Editions” sub-brand, offered MB&F’s design language at a more accessible price point. The M.A.D.1 Red (2022) featured a lateral time display and a triple-blade rotor that spun hypnotically reminiscent of MB&F’s kinetic art ethos. Later editions, such as the M.A.D.1S “Grow Your Dreams” (2025), incorporated artistic collaborations and limited releases, making them cult favorites in the collector community.

Luxury Watches Designed by Mb&F

MB&F occupies a niche within luxury watches, combining haute horlogerie with cutting-edge artistic design. Each piece, with prices starting around $50,000, is produced in limited quantities, appealing especially to collectors valuing innovation and craftsmanship.

Collecting Mb&F Watches: Tips & Insights

Collectors are advised to focus on limited editions and early models, as they often appreciate the most. Understanding the stories behind each Horological or Legacy Machine enhances the collectible value. Due to MB&F’s small-scale production, direct purchase through authorized dealers or the brand itself is recommended for authenticity.

Why Collectors Love Mb&F Watches

Collectors value MB&F for its visionary designs, technical excellence, and exclusivity. The brand is seen as a pioneer of independent watchmaking artistry, providing kinetic sculptures that are also mechanically remarkable timepieces, combining storytelling with high craftsmanship.

Which Mb&F Watches Are Appreciating Fastest in 2025

Legacy Machine No. 1 and early limited editions of the Horological Machine series have seen significant appreciation due to their breakthrough designs and rarity in 2025. Special editions with unique complications or collaborations also tend to gain collector interest rapidly.

Influence Of Mb&F Watches On Modern Watch Designers

MB&F's innovative approach has inspired many contemporary watchmakers to explore creative forms and integrate artistic kinetic elements into mechanical wristwatches. The brand’s emphasis on storytelling and sculptural design continues to push the boundaries of what a luxury watch can express.

The Future of Mb&F Watches

MB&F aims to maintain its status as a small, agile company that produces highly creative pieces in limited numbers. The focus will remain on pushing horological artistry further while integrating new materials, complications, and possibly expanding the M.A.D Gallery concept to wider audiences.

Brand Vision and Growth

Maximilian Büsser’s vision is for MB&F to be a creative laboratory where horology and art fuse without compromise. While the brand grows slowly, it prioritizes quality, innovation, and artistic freedom over mass production and commercial scale.

Final Thoughts

MB&F is a beacon of innovation in the luxury watch world, blending cutting-edge craftsmanship with audacious design vision. Under Maximilian Büsser's leadership, it has transformed watchmaking into an art form, catering to discerning collectors who seek outside-the-box mechanical masterpieces with lasting cultural and artistic value. MB&F stands as a testament to the power of creative freedom in haute horology.