AstaGuru’s ‘The Exceptionals – Jewellery, Timepieces & Silver’ Auction, being held on October 25-26, 2023, has an impressive selection of Timepieces. These include several Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Rolex, and timepieces from other prestigious brands. The range includes vintage to contemporary vintage to modern pieces, and covers varying styles and price points. There is something of interest for both men and women collectors who are looking to add a timepiece to their collection. Presented here are my Top 3 Picks as well as a few Honourable Mentions from the upcoming auction.

Patek Philippe 18K Yellow Gold Gondolo Wristwatch Ref No. 5024. LOT 76.
Part of the Holy Trinity (also comprising Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin), Patek Philippe (PP) was founded in 1839 in Geneva, Switzerland. The Stern family have owned PP since 1932, and they pride themselves on family-ownership and independence. PP has a history of creating timepieces that are among the most beautiful, complicated, and often innovative. PP is often considered the most prestigious name in the world of haute horology. Ownership of a PP timepiece is among the most prestigious status symbols and an enduring heirloom.
Reference 5024 is from the Gondolo Collection, which was launched in 1993. The ‘Gondolo’ name was derived from the ‘Chronometro Gondolo’ watches that were crafted for the famous Brazilian retailer – Goldolo & Labouriau – between 1902 and 1930.
According to the PP website:
“With its rectangular, tonneau- or cushion-shaped cases, the Gondolo collection brings together most of Patek Philippe’s “form” watches, the term for all those that are not round. Their strong lines, timeless style and geometric simplicity are a contemporary interpretation of the art deco style, which coincided with one of Patek Philippe’s own golden ages. In introducing the Gondolo, Patek Philippe has reinterpreted – with a subtle infusion of modernity – some of the historical pieces that are part of its heritage and may be admired in the Patek Philippe Museum.”
Reference 5024 is housed in a rectangular Yellow Gold case measuring 38 x 30 mm; it has a White dial with Arabic Numerals and Small Seconds at 6 O’clock. It is powered by PP’s workhorse in-house manual-winding calibre 215 PS, which has a power reserve of about 44 hours. This calibre features PP’s patented Gyromax Balance. It is adorned with the Poincon de Geneva or Geneva Seal. (Since 2009 PP has adopted its own Patek Phillipe Seal.) Lot 76 is circa mid-2000s and comes with papers.
The combination of its ‘Gondolo’ Yellow Gold Rectangular case and White Dial with Arabic Numerals gives this beautiful timepiece a vintage charm infused with both quirky and classical vibes. In the current landscape, both yellow gold cases and form timepieces are rare (though they are both making a comeback). Furthermore, PP’s current catalogue does not have a Gondolo timepiece for men. Reference 5024 is an extremely compelling proposition and a fantastic addition to any timepiece collection.

Patek Philippe White Gold Annual Calendar Moon Face Wristwatch Ref No. 5205G-013. LOT 79.
PP launched the first serially produced Annual Calendar timepiece, the Reference 5035, in 1996. An Annual Calendar is like a Perpetual Calendar in that the months adjust for 30 or 31 days; except for the month of February, where it must be manually adjusted. This also made PP’s Annual Calendars ‘relatively’ affordable and ‘accessible’ to a greater number of collectors. And in the process once again confirmed PP’s place atop the horological pyramid.
Launched in 2010, the Reference 5205 continues the brilliant tradition of PP’s Annual Calendars. According to an old PP Catalogue (2010-2011):
“The new Annual Calendar, reference 5205, is definitely distinguished by its day, date and month apertures, arranged along an arc in the upper part of the dial. But those with an eye for handsome, exclusive timepieces will also delight in the original design of the case, featuring a concave bezel and – for the first time – finely pierced lugs, framing two-tone dials in sophisticated harmonies of black and grey. The look is clean, dynamic and resolutely modern. In the lower section of the dial, the 24-hour indicator frames an aperture for the extremely accurate moon-phase display.”
The above text best describes the Reference 5205, which was originally launched in a White Gold case with a Black and Grey two-tone dial. PP introduced other dial variations over time, such as Lot 79, which is a White Gold case with Deep Blue dial (now discontinued), and a case diameter of 40 mm. Reference 5205 is powered by PP’s in-house self-winding calibre 324 S QA LU 24H, which has a power reserve of about 45 hours. It is visible via a sapphire caseback, where one can admire the 21K gold central rotor and other elements of the calibre. It features the patented PP Gyromax Balance and Spiromax Balance Spring. It is adorned with the Patek Philippe Seal. Lot 79 is circa 2021 and comes with its box and papers.
Reference 5205 falls under PP’s ‘Complications’ category, where the timepieces are not ‘Entry-Level’, neither are they ‘Grand Complications’. While PP excels in all its categories, their dominance of the Complications category has been historically second to none. It’s only in recent years where other notable haute-horology brands have made progress in this segment. The reference 5205 is among the notable Ambassadors of PP’s Complication pieces. Besides being a horological gem in terms of its Calibre and Annual Calendar Display, it is also a masterclass in Case and Dial design and details. It literally encapsulates many of PP’s classical design codes with a modern flair, horological innovation, abundance of details, and versatility – all in one timepiece. For the seasoned gentleman or lady collector, experienced with horology and collecting, reference 5205 is a must have. It is modern PP at its very best and a future classic.

Vacheron Constantin 18K Rose Gold Wristwatch Ref No. 81180. LOT 153.
Founded near Lake Geneva in Switzerland in 1755, Vacheron Constantin (VC) is the oldest continuous watchmaker in existence. Today they are 268 years old and going strong. Along with Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, they are part of the Holy Trinity. VC has crafted several of the most beautiful and complicated timepieces in history and continues to do so.
Reference 81180 is from VC’s Patrimony Collection. According to VC’s website:
“Circular perfection, a quest for essentials; the Patrimony collection is the epitome of stylistic pureness. Reflecting a deliberately minimalistic approach striking a beautiful balance between taut lines and curves, it asserts its personality through slender cases radiating an elegance inspired by 1950’s Vacheron Constantin models.”
To sum it up, the Patrimony collection is among the most beautiful family of circular timepieces in the world. I personally believe that the Patrimony collection is VC’S Flagship collection, with Reference 81180 as its Ambassador. Reference 81180 is a time-only timepiece, housed in a Rose Gold case with a Slate-Grey dial (now discontinued), and a case diameter of 40mm. With a case thickness of 6.8mm, it is ultra-thin. It is powered by VC’s workhorse in-house manual-winding calibre 1400, which has a power reserve of about 40 hours. It is adorned with the Poincon de Geneva or Geneva Seal. Lot 153 is circa 2020 and comes with its box and papers.
Crafting simple time-only timepieces is challenging, as quite often brands miss the mark. VC has historically excelled in this category and continues to do so till today. Compared to other notable haute-horology brands, VC is second to none in this category.
Modern VC has several families of collections and a diverse range of timepieces. Within reason, there is ‘something for everyone’, for most tastes and preferences, from simple time-only pieces, Métiers d’Art, overseas range of sports timepieces, Grand Complications, to their Bespoke service – Les Cabinotiers. However, this ‘simple’ Patrimony is – in my humble opinion – one of their most important timepieces and encapsulates the essence of what VC is all about. It is Pure Class. The notion ‘Less is More’ is defined by this timepiece. It is everything one will ever need in a timepiece. Reference 81180 is ideal for an entry-level or seasoned collector, who is looking to add a beautiful piece of horology to their collection.

Honorable Mentions:
LOT 77, a vintage Patek Philippe 18K Yellow Gold Pocket Watch Ref No. 54903, circa 1910’s-1920’s. A rare opportunity to acquire a vintage PP pocket watch at a relatively affordable price.

LOT 114, a vintage Vacheron Constantin 18K Yellow Gold Vintage Wristwatch Ref No. 332501, circa 1970’s. Dress timepieces are slowly making a comeback, and this reference with its gorgeous cream colour sector-dial and modest 34 mm diameter case size is sure to appeal to all segments of collectors seeking discreet elegance.

LOT 115, a Girard-Perregaux Limited Edition Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Wristwatch Ref No. 9027, circa 2006. With its rectangular case and combination of Perpetual Calendar and a Chronograph, this is an interesting Grand Complication timepiece from an haute-horology brand, and relatively affordable. Perfect for the collector who appreciates and collects complicated timepieces.

LOT 118, a Rolex Stainless Steel GMT-Master Wristwatch Ref No. 1675 (Pepsi), circa 1970’s, is a Legend among timepieces. The 1675 has its roots in Aviation and the erstwhile Pan Am. It is among the most iconic timepieces in the world, and the opportunity to acquire one should not be missed.

Written by Kunal P. Khemka
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