Indian antique jewellery is a testament to the country’s rich cultural heritage, exquisite craftsmanship, and royal legacy. Each piece tells a story, reflecting the artistry and traditions of different eras from the opulence of the Mughal courts to the spiritual symbolism of temple jewellery.

If you’re a collector or simply an admirer of antique jewellery, understanding the different types and their historical backgrounds can help you appreciate their true value. In this guide, we explore some of the most sought-after styles of Indian antique jewellery and their fascinating origins.

1. Kundan Jewellery – The Mughal Magnificence

Era: 16th–18th Century (Peak during Mughal rule)
Key Features: Gold foil-set uncut diamonds (Polki) or glass stones in intricate designs.
Description: Kundan jewellery is one of the oldest forms of jewellery making in India, known for its elaborate design and use of gemstones. This technique involves setting precious stones in a gold frame, creating a stunning piece of art. The stones are set with gold foil between the stones and its mount, which adds to the brilliance of the jewellery.
Historical Significance: Kundan jewellery originated in the royal courts of Rajasthan and Gujarat during the Mughal era. It was patronized by the royalty and nobility, who adorned themselves with these exquisite pieces during important ceremonies and festivals. The craftsmanship of Kundan jewellery has been passed down through generations, preserving the traditional techniques and designs.

Significant Fact:
•    Worn by Mughal empresses like Noor Jahan.
•    Symbolized royalty and wealth in Rajput and Mughal dynasties.

2. Polki Jewellery – Diamonds in Their Raw Glory

Era: Medieval India (Popularized under the Mughals)
Key Features: Uncut diamonds set in gold, often paired with pearls and colored gemstones.
Description: Polki jewellery is known for its uncut diamond stones set in gold. The diamonds used in Polki jewellery are not faceted, giving them a raw and natural look. This type of jewellery is often combined with Kundan and Meenakari work to create elaborate and stunning pieces.
Historical Significance: Polki jewellery has its origins in the Mughal era, where it was favored by the royalty for its natural beauty and elegance. The uncut diamonds were believed to possess a unique charm and were often worn by queens and princesses. Polki jewellery continues to be a popular choice for bridal wear, symbolizing timeless beauty and tradition.

Significant Fact:
•    Favoured by royal families for its natural, unpolished sparkle.
•    Often passed down as heirlooms in aristocratic households.

3. Jadau Jewellery – The Art of Enameling & Gem Setting

Era: Introduced by Mughals, flourished in Rajasthan & Gujarat
Key Features: Intricate gold work with meenakari (enameling) on the reverse side.
Description: Jadau jewellery is a traditional form of jewellery making that involves embedding precious stones in gold. The stones are set in a way that they appear to be floating, creating a three-dimensional effect. Jadau jewellery is known for its intricate designs and exquisite craftsmanship.
Historical Significance: Jadau jewellery originated in the royal courts of Rajasthan and Gujarat. It was patronized by the Mughal emperors and Indian royalty, who appreciated the intricate designs and craftsmanship. Jadau jewellery was often worn by brides and was considered a symbol of wealth and status. This art form has been preserved through generations, and Jadau jewellery continues to be a popular choice for bridal wear.

Significant Fact:
•    Worn by Rajput queens and Mughal nobility.
•    Considered a symbol of marital bliss in traditional weddings.

4. Temple Jewellery – Divine Adornments

Era: Ancient & Medieval South India (Chola, Pandya dynasties)
Key Features: Gold pieces embossed with deities, peacocks, and floral motifs.
Description: Temple jewellery is characterized by its intricate designs inspired by temple architecture and deities. This type of jewellery often features motifs of gods, goddesses, and mythological figures. Temple jewellery is typically made of gold and adorned with precious and semi-precious stones.
Historical Significance: Temple jewellery originated in South India during the Chola dynasty. It was initially created to adorn the idols of deities in temples. Over time, it became popular among classical dancers and brides, who wore it as a symbol of divine blessings and cultural heritage. Temple jewellery is still an essential part of bridal trousseau in South India, representing tradition and spirituality.

Significant Fact:
•    Used in Bharatanatyam and other classical dance forms.
•    Believed to bring divine blessings to the wearer.

5. Thewa Jewellery – Rajputana’s Glass Artistry

Era: 18th Century (Rajasthan)
Key Features: Gold filigree work fused onto colored glass, depicting scenes from mythology.
Description: Thewa jewellery is a unique art form that originated in the Pratapgarh district of Rajasthan. It involves the fusion of glass and gold, where intricate designs are created by fusing 23-karat gold with multicolored glass. Thewa jewellery is known for its delicate and detailed craftsmanship, often depicting scenes from mythology, nature, and royal courts.
Historical Significance: Thewa art was introduced by Raj son Nathu Ji Soni in the 18th century and has been passed down through generations of the Soni family. This art form was patronized by the royalty of Rajasthan, who appreciated the intricate designs and vibrant colors. Thewa jewellery was often worn by the nobility and was considered a symbol of wealth and status. Today, Thewa jewellery is highly valued for its artistic beauty and cultural heritage.

Significant Fact:
•    Patronized by Rajput kings and nobility.
•    Each piece tells a story from Indian epics like the Ramayana.

6. Navratna Jewellery – Astrological Powerhouses

Era: Ancient India (Vedic traditions)
Key Features: Nine gemstones representing celestial planets, set in gold.
Description: Navratna jewellery is characterized by the use of nine gemstones, each representing a celestial body. The nine gemstones are diamond (Venus), pearl (Moon), ruby (Sun), coral (Mars), emerald (Mercury), topaz (Jupiter), sapphire (Saturn), hessonite (Rahu), and cat's eye (Ketu). These gemstones are set in a specific arrangement to harness their astrological benefits.
Historical Significance: Navratna jewellery has its roots in ancient Indian astrology and Vedic traditions. It was believed that wearing these nine gemstones would bring good fortune, health, and prosperity. The Mughal emperors and Indian royalty often wore Navratna jewellery as a symbol of power and protection. This type of jewellery continues to be popular among those who believe in the astrological significance of gemstones.

Significant Fact:
•    Worn by kings and warriors for protection and prosperity.
•    Still used in traditional bridal sets for astrological harmony.

7. Pachchikam Jewellery – Vintage Silver Charm

Era: 19th Century (Kutch, Gujarat)
Key Features: Silver jewellery with uncut gemstones, minimal polishing.
Description: Pachchikam jewellery is a traditional form of silver jewellery that originated in the Kutch region of Gujarat. It is known for its intricate designs and the use of semi-precious stones. Pachchikam jewellery is typically worn by women of the Rabari community and is an essential part of their traditional attire. The jewellery is often adorned with mirrors, beads, and colorful stones, creating a striking and vibrant look.
Historical Significance: Pachchikam jewellery has its roots in the nomadic culture of the Rabari community, who are known for their rich traditions and craftsmanship. This type of jewellery was originally created to adorn the brides and was considered a symbol of prosperity and protection. Pachchikam jewellery is still an important part of the Rabari culture and is worn during festivals, weddings, and other special occasions.

Significant Fact:
•    Worn by tribal communities in Gujarat and Rajasthan.
•    Gaining popularity among collectors for its raw, unfinished beauty.

8. Victorian-Era Indian Jewellery – Colonial Fusion

Era: 19th–Early 20th Century (British Raj)
Key Features: Floral motifs, cameos, and European designs blended with Indian craftsmanship.
Description: Victorian-era Indian jewellery reflects the influence of British colonial rule on Indian jewellery design. During this period, Indian jewellery incorporated elements of Victorian style, such as intricate filigree work, the use of gemstones like diamonds, rubies, and sapphires, and motifs inspired by nature and mythology. Victorian-era Indian jewellery is known for its elegance, sophistication, and detailed craftsmanship.
Historical Significance: The Victorian era marked a significant period in the history of Indian jewellery, as it saw the fusion of Indian and European design elements. The British royalty and nobility were fascinated by the intricate craftsmanship and exotic designs of Indian jewellery, leading to a demand for Indian-inspired pieces in Europe. This period also saw the introduction of new techniques and materials, which enriched the tradition of Indian jewellery making. Victorian-era Indian jewellery continues to be admired for its timeless beauty and historical significance.

Significant Fact:
•    Reflects the cultural exchange during colonial times.
•    Often features pearls, garnets, and ivory.

9. Tribal Jewellery – Ethnic Heritage

Era: Ancient & Medieval (Across India)
Key Features: Bold silver pieces, coins, beads, and natural materials.
Description: Tribal jewellery encompasses a wide range of jewellery styles created by various indigenous communities across India. Each tribe has its unique designs, materials, and techniques, reflecting their cultural heritage and traditions. Tribal jewellery is often made from materials like beads, bones, shells, metals, and natural fibers. It is known for its bold and rustic designs, which are often inspired by nature and tribal mythology.
Historical Significance: Tribal jewellery has been an integral part of the cultural identity of indigenous communities in India. It is often worn as a symbol of social status, protection, and cultural heritage. Tribal jewellery is also used in various rituals and ceremonies, playing a significant role in the spiritual and social life of the community. The craftsmanship and designs of tribal jewellery have been passed down through generations, preserving the rich cultural heritage of these communities.

Significant Fact:
•    Represents tribal identity and traditions.
•    Often used in rituals and ceremonies.

10. South Indian Mango Malai & Vanki

Era: Chola & Vijayanagara periods
Key Features: Gold necklaces with layered pendant clusters, armlets (vanki).
Description: South Indian Mango Malai and Vanki are traditional types of jewellery that are an essential part of the bridal trousseau in South India. The Mango Malai is a necklace designed in the shape of mangoes, symbolizing fertility and prosperity. It is often made of gold and adorned with precious and semi-precious stones. The Vanki, also known as the armlet, is worn on the upper arm and is typically made of gold. It is often decorated with intricate designs and motifs inspired by nature and mythology.
Historical Significance: The Mango Malai and Vanki have been an integral part of South Indian bridal jewellery for centuries. The mango motif is considered auspicious and is believed to bring good fortune and prosperity to the bride. These pieces of jewellery are often passed down through generations, symbolizing the continuity of family traditions and cultural heritage. The craftsmanship and designs of Mango Malai and Vanki reflect the rich artistic traditions of South India and continue to be cherished for their beauty and significance.

Significant Fact:
•    Worn by South Indian royalty and brides.
•    Symbolizes prosperity and marital status.

Final Thoughts

Indian antique jewellery is not just an accessory, it’s a piece of history. Whether you’re drawn to the grandeur of Kundan, the spirituality of temple jewellery, or the rustic charm of tribal silver, each style carries a legacy worth preserving. When buying antique jewellery, always verify authenticity, check for hallmarks, and consult experts if needed. Owning a piece of these timeless treasures means holding onto a fragment of India’s glorious past.